曾挑战西班牙肉食狂欢的厨师Rodrigo de la Calle，
那时欧洲大厨还没有流行“纹花臂”。
相对而言，米其林一星大厨Rodrigo de la Calle在Villa Magna酒店一楼餐厅推出的“绿色革命”菜单确有逆潮流而动的勇气。西班牙人嗜肉如命，Tapas的主旋律也多是荤菜。但Rodrigo却酷爱蔬菜，他在南美逗留多年，花费一年时间采集和研究当地的蔬菜香料，并将菜籽带回马德里，在其位于马德里城区一公里外的家中试种。“让异域蔬菜适应马德里的气候和土壤可是个挑战”。好在这般摸索中，几十种蔬菜逐渐成气候，茂盛得如同精心管理的私家花园。产量供给他的私人餐厅外，还足够他在Villa Magna不间断地供应全套的“绿色革命”菜单（）。每个人都得收敛大鱼大肉的念头，看着荤腥被蜻蜓点水般地作为辅料。除了小巧玻璃盏盛的火腿汤可以勉强当做荤菜主角之外，其他的菜肴无一例外地“寡淡无味”。
制作素食菜肴时不伪造肉味是Rodrigo的基本原则。
来自秘鲁的香兰，被榨出玫瑰色的汁液，淋在碧绿色的盘底，散发着淡淡的酸甜气息。洋葱每人仅得三片，经过微炸，炸得如白玉一般，再撒上茴香捣碎磨成的调料。原香犹在，但泥土中那股青涩的生猛味道已被过滤抹去。若餐厅当晚不忙，与大厨聊聊天也是一件乐事。Rodrigo乐于交谈，高兴时会给我们展示纹在身上的蔬菜，当然也会不回避我们对他“勇敢尝试”的疑问。他指向餐厅一角的另一桌客人，“他们这周已经三顾茅庐了。”铁杆粉丝的逐步增加使他觉得可以将“绿色革命”的实验持续更久。“尽管粉丝的增长有些缓慢，但这足以证明我们的味蕾有时比我们的头脑更开放！”
注：Rodrigo与Villa Magna的合作已告一段落，现时你可在Sierra Madrileña的EL INVERNADERO或La Torre Box Art Hotel品尝到他的素食佳肴。
一个工作日的中午，我足足排了一个小时才等到一个座位。
La Bola的厨房狭小拥挤，狭小到我无法安然拍摄几张店内招牌菜——马德里肉汤的烹制过程。厨师们要不断地在长达四个小时的时间里，将熬制原汤的大锅中的原汤逐一添进特别烧制的瓦罐之中。其中猪蹄、鹰嘴豆，经过长时间的腌制和蒸煮，已经变得柔烂滑膩，连加入的汤都会泛着浓郁的香味。临近午饭时间，餐厅里几乎无一空位。就连走到自己的座位，也需要其他客人起身挪动椅子腾出过道。身着黑马甲的侍应生态度彬彬有礼，也没有挤在厨房门口大声催促上菜。客人也都大多显得从容不迫。只有当厨师吆喝着将刚出炉的肉汤端上来时，众人才会颇有默契地将面包移到一旁，重新整理餐具，开始正式用餐。
需要在厨房炖上至少4个小时的马德里肉汤，把那个狭小的厨房热坏了。
“四个小时的烹饪时间不是弹性的，这是我们餐厅一百多年来的标准，不容折扣”。罗拉目前是这家由家族传承的百年餐厅的掌门人，在我与她交谈之前，她几乎走遍了每一桌，与客人打招呼或聊家常。“很多客人在这家餐厅用餐的时间比我的年龄还大。在我还是个小姑娘的时候，他们就认识我，或者看我长大。”餐厅的历史可以追溯到其太爷爷那辈人，餐厅的格局是当时的遗产，而家族成员则喜欢在后续的修缮中逐渐添加他们经历过的喜怒哀乐。有些模糊的黑白照片、古典吉他、餐厅最早定制的银质餐具，还有我特别喜欢的清绿色花式壁布，那是20世纪中叶曾经在马德里流行过的样式。
豆子和猪脚都已经煮得烂到不行，但汤喝完后谁都不舍得把它们留着。
“我和客人们都很熟悉餐厅的细节，当年我父母的客人，如今他们的孩子仍然愿意来这里用餐，这就好像我和几个家族一起分享记忆和时光一样，很有趣！”罗拉觉得她需要扮演好一个守护者的角色。“家族有新的生意，有新的餐厅，佛拉明哥俱乐部，但大家都同意维护和坚持La Bola原有的风貌”。在她看来，变化是潮流，但对情感和记忆来说，却未必都是好事。“我喜欢去新餐厅吃饭，但这并不意味着我一定要放弃一些让记忆温暖的传统。”
<img image_type="1" img_height="960" img_width="640" mime_type="image/jpeg" src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/314700069a17a7dd6f35~noop.image?_iz=58558&from=article.pc_
But roasted suckling pig is still very delicious.
Botin restaurant has the same tradition in another way. The title of "the oldest restaurant" (1725) in the Guinness Book of World Records has brought a continuous stream of tourists to the restaurant. The restaurant simply adjusted its own clock. Although the cost of maintaining the original 18th-century style is getting higher and higher, even finding red bricks of the same color is becoming increasingly difficult. But the urge to remember is too strong.
This makes the restaurant's basement the most popular dining area for diners, who are even willing to wait in the tense journey to get a seat. The wine cellar space is not large, and the seats are usually crowded together, but the exposed red bricks and the lines drawn by the gray powder are too cool. It always reminds people of the decades after the Middle Ages when people were quite particular and interesting about the dining atmosphere. Of course, according to the rules of that time. The owner needs to step on the narrow stairs that require bowing and stooping, and through a wooden window, to ask the chef to adjust the taste slightly. This window is still there. As long as you lean slightly inward, you can see the chef using a long-handled iron shovel to put the marinated suckling pig into the huge black roasting oven that has been smoked for a long time. In the busy season, he roasts almost hundreds of suckling pigs every day.
Without annoying the waiter,
You can go to the small window in the kitchen and watch the chef roast the suckling pig with fire;
Suckling pig is the most popular dish here, with crispy skin, a strong but not choking smoky smell, and a sweetness in the meat. Take a bite while it's hot, with a few years of old red wine, and chew it slowly, and the taste can slowly bloom like a flower between the lips and teeth.
Hemingway used to like sitting on the 2nd floor, he didn't like the basement,
But he didn't want to be disturbed, so he just sat in the corner.
Back then, this taste also conquered Hemingway. This young man who was a ranger in Europe at that time was not so addicted to the always crowded basement, but would rather sit in the innermost chair in the corner surrounded by blue and white china patterns on the second floor, hiding very deeply, rarely disturbed. You can enjoy a genuine Botin roasted suckling pig on your own, or write something. The restaurant didn't add any special marks to this seat, only the waiters knew the exact location of this set of tables and chairs. Over the years, the debate about Hemingway has never stopped. He is a great writer, but whether he is a foodie has never reached a consensus. "Many people ask about Hemingway, but we believe that this is not the ultimate reason why guests choose Botin." The waiter rearranged his white suit and tie, seeming to dismiss the question I asked about Hemingway. "If the food doesn't taste good, trust me, nothing will make the Spanish come back for a second time."
San Miguel Market, now despised by Madrilenos as "a place for tourists",
They prefer to go to San Anton.
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