Patek Philippe is a world-renowned Swiss watch brand, but many people do not understand what Patek Philippe Geneve means when they see it on a watch. Today, we will shed some light on this mystery.
Founded in 1839, Patek Philippe is the only independent family-owned watch manufacturer still in existence in Switzerland. Most of Patek Philippe's timepieces bear the Geneva Seal, a mark of high-quality internal movement. The Geneva Seal, established in 1886, sets standards for watchmaking to acknowledge the finest Swiss watchmaking craftsmanship.
Over the years, Patek Philippe has established a unique style, with its watch designs falling into five main categories: Calatrava, Nautilus, Golden Ellipse, Flamme, and Gondolo.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Men's Collection Watches: A Legacy of Timekeeping
The Calatrava collection is named after the beautiful Calatrava Cross, the emblem of the Patek Philippe company. The first Calatrava appeared in 1932. Over the past 70 years, Patek Philippe designers have continuously expanded the collection, adding more refined designs and functionalities. It remains one of Patek Philippe's most popular collections, with at least 24 different models created to date.
As the brand's most famous collection, Calatrava seamlessly combines the timelessness of a round dial with the classic beauty of a watch silhouette.
The early Patek Philippe Calatravas followed the Bauhaus school of architecture and art, which believed that form should follow function. This theory is still applied to the design and development of the Calatrava today. The Calatrava series reflects this philosophy, believing that a timepiece's primary responsibility is to tell time in the most precise way possible. The Bauhaus school has always rejected excessive and unnecessary ornamentation, so the Calatrava series never lets any design elements distract the wearer, keeping their focus on the time.
What is Patek Philippe Geneve?
Patek Philippe Geneve refers to the Geneva collection, which is named after the renowned city in Switzerland.
The Geneva Seal originated from the "Geneva Law" established in 1886, with the aim of guaranteeing the watch's origin and the craftsmanship of its artisans. The Geneva Seal is only awarded to watches made in the Geneva area, and only watches with手工制作的自上链机械机芯才有资格获得此殊荣， with the "eagle and key" emblem engraved on the caliber's mainplate (see image). Watches that do not receive the Geneva Seal are not necessarily lesser in quality, but those that meet the Geneva Seal's criteria represent the highest levels of craftsmanship in watchmaking.
The "Geneva Law" has undergone several revisions, and currently has 12 provisions that specify the standards for the caliber's construction. While some of these provisions are purely decorative, such as requiring all steel parts to have polished edges and smooth chamfers, screw heads to be polished or rounded, and all visible edges and recesses to be deburred, requiring all movement wheels to be manually chamfered and then polished with boxwood, etc., these 12 rules, though not universally accepted by every watchmaker or manufacturer, demonstrate that the watch is entirely handcrafted.
First Provision:
(1A) All parts of the movement, including added mechanical devices, must meet the strict requirements of the 12 provisions and be subject to sampling inspection. This means that all components and additional mechanical装置 made of metal must have even surfaces, chamfered and polished edges, and all interior and lateral surfaces of the components must be polished.
(1B) The edges of all steel components must be chamfered, polished, and polished to a mirror finish. The edges and slots of all screw caps must be chamfered and polished, while the screw tails must be flat or spherically polished.
Second Provision:
(2) All movement gears, escapement, pallets, and balance wheels must have jewel bearings (except the barrel, barrel arbor, and the central wheel on the baseplate), with their holes highly polished and their surfaces in contact with the gears polished arcs, at least flat polished, to reduce the friction area. The ruby center holes must have a喇叭口 oil groove and be highly polished to prevent oil from spreading and leaking, while the outer circumference of the ruby must have a recessed ring and be polished for aesthetics. The escape wheel and pallet forks should ideally have cap stones like the balance wheel to minimize friction, with at least upper and lower cap stones for the escape wheel.
Third Provision:
(3) The balance spring must be a Breguet double-layer blue hairspring, with single-layer blue hairsprings also acceptable for ultra-thin movements. The balance spring head on the balance must be secured with a single-head, round-necked, free-sliding metal pressure plate, or a spring screw with adjustable support.
Fourth Provision:
The hairspring regulator, or the timing adjustment hand, must have a fixing device for fine adjustment (such as a swan-neck type regulator), and ultra-thin movements do not require a timing adjustment hand. If there is no timing adjustment design, the balance must have a compensating screw for fine-tuning timing, and at least two or four new beryllium-nickel alloy enamel code compensating balance wheels, or at least four or eight adjustable timing balance wheels without compensating screws, with no ring-shaped compensation pendulum, are acceptable.
Fifth Provision:
The balance vibrates the balance sheet, adjusts the isochronal beat structure, the time adjustment hand and other mechanisms and components must conform to the requirements of Laws 1A and 1B.
Sixth Provision:
All gear transmission rings and their supporting beams must be chamfered, and the junction with the small gear shall be ground and finished. There are m thickness equal to or less than 0.15 mm can be chamfered and polished on one side only, with the transmission ring polished. When the gear thickness is more than 0.15 mm, both sides of the gear contact surface must be chamfered and polished.
Seventh Provision:
All steel gear teeth and their cross-sectional surfaces, all gear bearing ends and their studs must be polished to a mirror finish. All drive sets, gears, including gear surfaces, must be polished to a chamfer to make them clear and prevent oil from spreading by capillary action. When the ruby and shaft are polished to a mirror finish, the friction resistance is reduced, and the lubricating oil will also be condensed into a ball shape due to the physical effect of cohesion, rather than allowing oil to spread and leak due to the rough surface of capillary .
Eighth Provision:
时计的所有机芯都必须配备防震装置。尽管大约 1900 年的怀表和 1940 年至 1970 年间制造的许多机芯都带有日内瓦印记，但当时包括百达翡丽和江诗丹顿手表在内的某些制造商并未为其作品安装避震器，因此这一规则可能是 1970 年以后添加的。
第十一法则：
上链系统的棘轮和冠轮必须按照注册型号的特有规范制造。这意味着发条盒、齿轮和小钢轮与大钢轮之间的啮合应经过打磨和抛光，以确保轻松顺畅地上链。为了保证坚固耐用，小钢轮应为垂直双层结构，而大钢轮和小钢轮齿型最好呈狼牙状。虽然这一点在古董高级时计中很常见，但当代时计通常采用带有倒角和抛光的齿型。
第十二法则：
不可使用由钢丝弯曲而成的弹簧。时计中具有弹簧性能的部件，如发条擒纵器、发条盒齿轮、离合器弹簧、日历和自动齿系、三问、报时的三问表、计时码表以及万年历等功能部件的弹簧必须由整块钢板切割雕刻而成。然后打磨抛光制成具有弹性和美观线条的部件。无论任何组件何但在操作动作中，都必须借助弹簧复位，无论弹簧的形状是薄如纸、长或短，而且都必须通过定位销固定，不得采用缘定和扁平弹簧加工弯曲而成，或用未经螺丝固定的弹簧替代使用。
二、百达翡丽geneve手表价格多少?
百达翡丽geneve手表价格高昂，相当高，无法提供确切数字。如果你真的拥有百达翡丽geneve手表，那么你手腕上的这款手表价值相当于一辆路上的桑塔纳！朋友，你相信吗?
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这是我最喜欢的一款手表，我至今保留着收据，撰写这篇评测的唯一目的是：百达翡丽是一种信仰，更是一种体验。爱需要传承，手表也是如此。
责任编辑和评测员：陈弘超
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